Surf Update


After the brief rainstorm, the sun seems to be out in full scorching effect. The waves here are….epic. Perfect rights and lefts in a few spots that break consistently through medium and high tides. Oh, that sludgy brown water turned out to be some sort of clay being washed into the river, though come to think of it, I did get an earache at 2am last night (quickly treated by applying a few drops grapefruit seed extract and popping a couple of advil).
Lots of incredible rides, if only I wasn’t born an albino I could easily live here for the next few months. Though at the current rate of sun absorption my skin will be due to fall off within the next week.


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